Establishing safe and conservative oil change intervals is best accomplished through oil analysis performed at a reputable lab. However, at a cost approaching that of a 5 quart oil change, this isn’t always a cost effective solution for passenger car owner.

Of course, the result is that the vast majority of vehicle owners choose not to pay for professional oil analysis services – but they might be willing to perform their own “oil analysis”, if they knew how to do it. It won’t give you detailed numbers as you’d get from a lab, but it can give you enough information to determine whether you should be changing your oil or not (as long as you don’t push things too far).

In the next few paragraphs you will discover the complete details for performing one of six DIY oil analysis tests which can be used to establish the condition of your oil and whether it’s ready for a change.

You might also want to consider learning a bit more about oils and filters in general. Quite alot of information can be gleaned from the following sites.

- No More Oil Changes – tons of motor oil information

- The Motor Oil Evaluator –

- A Motor Oil Forum for discussion of motor oils

The Business Card Test

This test reveals oxidation products, sludge formation, dispersancy failure, glycol contamination, water contamination, fuel dilution, and high levels of particles.

While your engine (and the oil) is WARM (not HOT), pull your dipstick and place one drop of oil on a heavy, white, NON-glossy business card. Lay your “oil drop test strip” (the business card) flat, but so that all but the very edges of the paper is suspended. As a possible example, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) simply set the card across the top of a cup or mug of some sort.

You want to be patient and wait for the oil drop to be completely absorbed which might take awhile. Once all of the oil has been drawn into the pores of the paper you should be able to begin evaluating the condition of your oil.

- A colorless spot or slight yellowish outer ring = “good” oil.

- A dense, dark deposit zone = Dispersancy failure

- A black, pasty zone = Glycol (Anti-freeze) in your engine oil

- Center of circle dark with distinct outside ring = Severely oxidized oil

- Center of circle dark with outer rings = Fuel in oil,Fuel dilution

Information for this test featured in: Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”, Noria Corporation 2000

There is a point at which a vehicle owner realizes that not all types and brands of oil are created equally. It is at that point that the individual decides that there must be a “perfect oil” out there for their engine and they begin the quest to find it. So, it seems rather important to determine just HOW to find that “perfect oil”. This article and the follow-up articles I’ll be writing soon will be focused on that particular goal.

Legendary Lubrication Dreamland

Of course, many people make the assumption, as they pursue their “ultimate motor oil” that there is necessarily a “best oil” that will fit everyone’s needs. Some SUPER oil which will, undoubtedly, serve everyone perfectly. But, the extraordinary engine oil paradise that they are looking for is a legend at best. It simply doesn’t exist|cannot be found.

No ONE oil can effectively meet everyone’s needs. In fact, no one BRAND can meet the needs of all users either. A premium brand synthetic, like AMSOIL, Redline, NEO or similar, MAY, in fact, be a more premium quality oil, but that doesn’t make it the best choice for every situation.

Thus, you’re going to want to consider your situation and application and what motor oil characteristics will prove to be most useful to your particular needs (such as low temperature or high temperature operation, long oil drains, low internal friction for improved fuel economy, better wear protection, low volatility, etc.). Once these characteristics have been established, then begin looking for the oils that best offer those lubrication qualities.

If you don’t follow a similar research pattern, it is really not possible to make a truly educated decision with regards to proper oil selection for your application. And, thus, you will likely end up with a lubricant that is not meeting your needs in the best way possible.

Petroleum, blend or synthetic, 5w30 vs 5w40, Redline, AMSOIL or Valvoline, API CI-4 or CJ-4, the list goes on. Which of these you choose, ultimately, makes no difference, as long as the choices you make will be ones that best serve the needs of YOUR application.