Many people don’t realize how much money they can save if they were to just take the time to do some simple things for their car. Every one is busy today, with work and relationships and lots of other stresses, but taking ten minutes out of your hectic schedule to do some simple care care maintenance, can save you time and money in the long run.

Here are some common mistakes people make with their cars:

1) Not making sure their tires are inflated properly – There is no real guess work involved here, recommended tire pressure is clearly printed on the tire. One thing you do need to buy if you don’t have one, is a tire pressure gauge. It doesn’t have to be fancy, many reliable gauges cost just around five dollars, less in many cases.

This is beneficial in many ways. First of all, because when your tires are at the optimal PSI, your car will burn less gas. Second, you won’t have to get new tires as often. Third, a tire that is under or over inflated doesn’t perform as well, and can even be dangerous. It can possibly blow and cause an accident.

2) Not checking fluid levels (or not checking them properly) – If your cat is an automatic, you should check fluids when they’re warm. Put the car in neutral, and make sure the parking brake is on. Your engive oil can be checked with the car warm, but make sure the car is turned off to do that. When it comes to radiator fluids, those should only be checked when the engine is cold. If you check them while the car is hot, pressure can build up in the radiator and cause severe burns.

3) Do it yourself oil changes, or skipping regularly scheduled lubrication – Changing your own oil, while is seems like a good alternative, isn’t, because you have to raise the car, drain the oil, which is messy, and then you are stuck with trying to dispose of the used oil.

That’s why taking your car to a lube shop is the best choice. They’ll check all fluids and top of everything, they’ll lubricate the chassis, and do a few other things, for a pretty low price. Using a lube shop is typically less expensive, and a whole lot faster too.

4) Not having regular brake inspections, or not changing the pads often enough – That incessant squeal every time you apply the brake is a warning that the pads have worn down to the studs, and are scraping against the drums and rotors. Taking the time to have the brakes changed, for under two hundred dollars in most cases, is a lot cheaper than having to replace the rotors and drums.

5) Not making sure the gas cap is tight – If your engine light comes on, it could be telling you that your gas cap is loose, and air is interfering with your fuel intake. By making sure your gas cap is on properly, you won’t have to take your vehicle in to get checked for something this simple.

Want to find a good Salt Lake City mechanic? Want high quality service at a great price without waiting around all day for it? Go to www.slcautorepair.com to find a good mechanic at a low price.

If a component fails, it’s relatively simple to locate the problem and fix or replace the part. If the problem happens sporadically, it’s far more difficult to do so. Sometimes, the issue only happens under specific driving conditions, and even then, it may not occur every time those conditions are met. In other cases, the issue may be completely unpredictable. It can happen at any instant regardless of the circumstances under which you’re driving. That makes resolving the issue problematic.

When your car’s engine suffers intermittent glitches, it’s frustrating for both you and your mechanic. Without being able to duplicate the glitch, it’s hard to know how to fix it. Below, we’ll take a closer look at the types of sporadic engine problems that can be difficult to resolve.

Temperature: Too Hot Or Cold

In some cases, your engine might only experience trouble when it’s too hot or cold. For example, you might notice that you have trouble turning it over after it has been sitting overnight, but you can do so easily if it has only been sitting for an hour. On the other hand, trouble might emerge only when you’re moving at cruising speed. That is, a “normal” temperature while driving is somehow triggering the snag.

Usually, when a glitch happens due to temperature, it can be isolated to one or more circuits. Heat and cold can play havoc with the connections. Connectors can lose contact due to expansion; a solenoid might short out; a circuit board can develop tiny cracks. Each of these things (as well as plenty of others) can cause an unpredictable engine problem.

When In Motion

Some glitches only happen when you’re driving. For example, you might experience trouble whenever you hit a specific speed. Or, running over rough terrain might cause your vehicle to stall. When this happens, the snag is usually due to something that has become loose. Even a single loose connector can lead to stalling. In some cases, the root cause might create a ripple effect; for example, the computer might misinterpret feedback from the chassis or exhaust system.

Moisture And Electrical Shorts

These types of issues are relatively easy to identify. Your engine might stall after you drive over a large puddle. Or, it may refuse to turn over if your vehicle has been sitting in heavy rain overnight. The issue is typically due to a short; something is shorting out due to the conducting nature of the water around it. The problem is that if the moisture hits the powertrain control module, it can do a lot of damage. If that happens, you’ll probably need to have it replaced.

Diagnosing intermittent problems with your car’s engine can be enormously frustrating. Normally, mechanics will rely partly on the circumstances under which a glitch happens in order to resolve it. If they don’t have that information, a lot of the initial testing will be based on guesswork. And that can quickly add up to a hefty repair bill.

The Honda Company has a history of producing quality cars, motorcycles, scooters, trucks, robots, jets and jet engines, ATVs, water craft, and many other important technologies. One interesting historical feature of the Honda Company is the origination of the Honda engine. Honda is the largest engine manufacturer in the world, with more than 14 million internal combustion engines built each year.

After World War II, Soichiro Honda formed the Honda Research Institute Company Ltd in Japan. In 1947, Honda built the A-type engine, a 1-horsepower 50cc two-stroke that fastened to bicycles. Honda staff called it the chimney because of its tall cylinder. In September 1948, the Honda Motor Co. was formally established.

The first production automobile from Honda was the T360 mini pick-up truck which was powered by a small 356 cc straight-4 gasoline engine. The first production car from Honda was the S500 sports car. In 1961, the bigger Volvo model engines called the 122-S series B-18 engine were built. In 1965 Honda built a race car equipped with a 12-cylinder engine.

In 1973, The Ford Motor Company formed an agreement with The Honda Motor Company to obtain technical data on a new engine that would decrease air pollution. They created the first engine to meet the guidelines of the 1970 US Clean Air Act.

In 1991, Honda reported selling 7000 CRX-HF cars where the Honda engine used computers and sensors to control valve action and the air-fuel. The purpose was to increase the amount of air in the mixture to 20 parts per 1 part gasoline.

In May 1999, Honda announced that it would supply its new Formula 1 engines to British American Racing. The most important highlight of the announcement was that Hondas engine engineers had developed an oil trap that fitted into the engine. Also in 1999, Hybrid Electric Honda launched the first commercial hybrid electric car that was sold in the US as the Honda Insight. The first-generation Insight was produced from 2000 to 2006. This was the most fuel-efficient mass-produced car at the time. In 2000, Honda began mass producing clean high-performance engines.

The Honda Civic GX is the only natural gas vehicle (NGV) available in certain US locations. In 2001, the Civic GX was rated the cleanest-burning internal combustion engine in the world by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency?.

In 2006, Honda announced it would build a $154-million engine plant near Alliston, Ontario, Canada. It would be the first engine plant in Canada. In late 2006, Honda’s Brazilian subsidiary launched flexible-fuel versions for the Honda Civic and Honda Fit. These models run on a mixture of hydrous ethanol (E100) and E20-E25 gasoline. Honda introduced the second-generation Insight in Japan in February 2009. It will be the cheapest hybrid available in the US.

Since 2002, Honda has been selling the Honda Civic Hybrid (2003 model) in the US. It was followed by the Honda Accord Hybrid, which was offered in 2005 to 2007 models. Honda is also planning to introduce a hybrid version of its Honda Fit, as well as another unique small hybrid vehicle based on the CR-Z sports car that was introduced at the 2007 Tokyo Motor Show.

Honda has a remarkable history of building solid engines. It will be interesting to see what the future of the Honda engine will bring.

With the failing economy and the falling wages of worker, perhaps the solution to giving your car a different look will be to give your car a complete new paint job. If the mechanics and the engine of the car is in good shape, but you do not fancy the car body, then painting it will be the ideal answer.

Its a fantastic money saver, but even more so if you do it yourself as opposed to having it professionally done up in the workshop. You can do it right if you study the basics and follow the instructions for car spray painting. It’s important though if you decide you are going to take on this project that you are ready to see it complete till the end.

First of all, you require various supplies. These comprise of:

-coverings to secure the unpainted areas and masking tape to hold these in place -a good car-wash detergent and brush as well as a wax/grease remover. -various grits of sandpaper -primers and paint that’s urethane base for the car spray painting -paint sprayer -safety tools example masks, goggles and protective clothing -knife and putty for fill ins.

One : You must make sure that you wash the car thoroughly to remove all grime and debris. If you don’t then these things will be set in with your paint, leaving a very frustrating look to the completed job. Follow up with a wax/grease remover so the paint you use for the car spray painting would adhere the right way.

2 : Remove whatsoever rough spots by sanding. Once this has been done be certain to rinse off whatsoever of the loose sandings. This’s where you will want to use the putty to fill in whatever minor pit marks, that are have been caused from stones for instance.

Three : Dont get in too much of a hurry to start your car spray painting. The car must be wholly dry so it is best to leave it to do so for a couple of hours. You can go ahead and cover whatever of the areas that your do not want to get paint on.

4 : Presently youre ready to begin with the primer. Dont skip this step, as it will give a much improved look to the completed project. It helps the paint to adhere properly and allows for a more even finish. Next, once the primer is dry you’ll need to lightly sand it down.

Five : Youre eventually at the step youve been waiting for. Its time to apply the color for your car spray painting. Whether you’ve selected to use aerosol paints or a spray gun, the premise remains the same. Merely apply thin coats. A couple would likely be needed. A Couple light coats are much better than one thick coat. You’ll be able to tell just by looking at the car how many more coats of paint it would need. Various would only require two whereas others will require three or 4.

6 : In conclusion, down to the last step and that’s applying the clear coat. This’s done exactly the same as the colored coats.

Now you can have a look at your personalized car spraying.

One thing is for sure if you are going to be a paint technician then how good you are at it will all depend on how well you learn to operate your spray guns. They are the tools of the trade and can mean the difference in your being an excellent paint technician or a poor one. Not only must one learn the various techniques involved with the spray guns there is also a must have knowledge to be gained in how to maintain the spray guns to keep them in their optimum working condition. You can have all the techniques mastered but if your gun is not operating properly then in won?t matter about your techniques.

You have to visualize what the spray gun is doing when in operation such as taking tiny droplets of paints then breaking these droplets down into thousands of small particles. What gives the spray gun its ability to do this is its nozzle set. This is the air cap, paint needle and the fluid tip. There are variables that determine the size of those thousands of droplets of paint. It will depend on the viscosity of the streams of fluid as well as how much surface tension is present. The reason you don?t get a steady stream of paint running out is because of the compressed air at the nozzle.

Getting on to the techniques of the gun when you slightly apply pressure to the trigger the air valve opens. With a little more pressure, it opens the fluid tip needle and allows the paint to flow.

If you are using a gravity gun. The amount of fluid dispersed is controlled by the viscosity of the paint. The flow is also determined by the fluid tip as well as the needle adjustment. As a rule of thumb, the gun should be almost fully open. With pressurized fluids, air pressure also affects the flow.

Equipment Set Up Knowing how to work with atomization is the key to the proper set up. The combinations of the variants must be just right. For example the exact blend of the right nozzle with the correct pressure settings combined with fluid flow and fan width all the way they are suppose to be determines the outcome. Ideally, for the standard guns try and use only enough pressure to give you the best atomization and spray pattern.

If you are new to the world of spray painting the best advice in the beginning is keep it simple. In other words, use a type of spray gun that is going to do the job you need it for. There is no need to purchase a spray gun that has a lot of additives to it if you don?t require them. On the other hand, if you are going to be using your spray gun on a regular basics then you may want something a little more advanced, as you will likely need it as you venture into your paint jobs.

It isn’t the tools that are used in a job that make it good or bad, it’s the person using those tools that makes the difference. In car polishing a good technician can make that finish look better than when you bought the car, and you wouldn’t think twice about how they could do that. In this short article, I will go over some points that technicians know, or should know.

The main problems when it comes to auto finishing are things like paint runs, sags, dirt nibs and just plain old polishing in general. To start with, make sure that the finish is dry in accordance with the information from the product sheet as failure to do this could damage the finish, making the whole job very costly.

The proper way to polish when using a polish, make sure it is specifically or can be used for urethane finishes and not lacquer finishes. When sanding, make sure that you use the finer 1000grit paper, as course grit sandpaper can ruin a finish.

The polisher speed should be set at 1200 ? 1700 rpm?s to ensure the best result. It is also very important to make sure that you are using the right type of pad before you start. To know what the best pad types, always check the product data sheets and they?ll steer you in the right direction, remember, if in doubt, check the sheet.

On the blend edges when you are, polishing be sure to work away from the edge and never directly into it. The most recommended method for a blend edge is to hand glaze rather than machine polish. When you have to hand glaze, always a cloth that is not rough and make sure it is clean forboth the application and when taking the glaze off.

Getting Rid Of Imperfections As with polishing, always check with the right manufacturers product data sheet before sanding, or polishing, this will give you the recommended dry times before polishing. Always make sure that before you begin any work on the surface that you take off debris and material. If this isn?t done, the results will be costly and catastrophic.

It is so important that the proper prep work be done so that the surface is: Free of imperfections like dirt nibs. You can use 1500 or better grit for wet sanding to get rid of these. To make sure there are no more imperfections on the surface, sand the surface with a block sander, not necessarily the entire surface, spot sanding will do.

The Last Step Use the polisher lightly to eliminate sand scratches using the right liquid polish. When using the polisher, set it to 1200 ? 1700 rpm and use a wool pad first. Next, you will need to use a foam pad. Finally, you need a non- abrasive glaze. Always remember that if you are in doubt about what to use or how to do it, consult the manufacturer?s list of instruction and information data sheet .Don?t be in a hurry, if you take your time you won?t make the mistakes that you will only regret.

There is a point at which a vehicle owner realizes that not all types and brands of oil are created equally. It is at that point that the individual decides that there must be a “perfect oil” out there for their engine and they begin the quest to find it. So, it seems rather important to determine just HOW to find that “perfect oil”. This article and the follow-up articles I’ll be writing soon will be focused on that particular goal.

Legendary Lubrication Dreamland

Of course, many people make the assumption, as they pursue their “ultimate motor oil” that there is necessarily a “best oil” that will fit everyone’s needs. Some SUPER oil which will, undoubtedly, serve everyone perfectly. But, the extraordinary engine oil paradise that they are looking for is a legend at best. It simply doesn’t exist|cannot be found.

No ONE oil can effectively meet everyone’s needs. In fact, no one BRAND can meet the needs of all users either. A premium brand synthetic, like AMSOIL, Redline, NEO or similar, MAY, in fact, be a more premium quality oil, but that doesn’t make it the best choice for every situation.

Thus, you’re going to want to consider your situation and application and what motor oil characteristics will prove to be most useful to your particular needs (such as low temperature or high temperature operation, long oil drains, low internal friction for improved fuel economy, better wear protection, low volatility, etc.). Once these characteristics have been established, then begin looking for the oils that best offer those lubrication qualities.

If you don’t follow a similar research pattern, it is really not possible to make a truly educated decision with regards to proper oil selection for your application. And, thus, you will likely end up with a lubricant that is not meeting your needs in the best way possible.

Petroleum, blend or synthetic, 5w30 vs 5w40, Redline, AMSOIL or Valvoline, API CI-4 or CJ-4, the list goes on. Which of these you choose, ultimately, makes no difference, as long as the choices you make will be ones that best serve the needs of YOUR application.

Spray paint can end up on your car a couple of different ways. 1 it can be an over spray from another area that you are painting on the car. 2 it could be an accident that in some manner the spray got on it. Or you decided to spray paint the car yourself, then didnt like it or made a mistake.

How tricky a job its going to be to remove it will depend on a lot of components. First off, you need to determine the type of paint. Hopefully it’ll be a water based paint which is much easier to deal with. All you’ll most likely have to do here’s wash the region down well with soapy water. Now if it’s an oil based paint then it makes things abit more difficult. Then another dilemma will be you don’t even know what kind of paint it’s.

First of all, there are various kinds of paint. It can be lacquer or acrylic. It could even be enamel but this is not as popular as it used to be. If your original paint on your car happens to be enamel then if the unintended spray paint is lacquer or acrylic would make the enamel paint look crumpled. Regrettably, the exclusive solution in this case will be to scrape the field clean and then re-paint it to match the automobiles basic colour.

If you’re fortunate enough to have an original finish of acrylic or lacquer and enamel paint has been sprayed on top of it, there won’t be any wrinkles to the basic. You want to check if the paint is enamel, so here’s what you do.

Take any paint thinner, kerosene, gasoline or turpentine and apply a reasonable amount to a clean white cloth. Now very softly rub over the paint you want to remove. If you see the paint color being transferred to the cloth, then its enamel. If the cloth continues to stay clear then it is acrylic or lacquer. If it did turn out to be enamel then merely continue to gently clean off the residue of the paint.

Therefore if you have ended up with either lacquer or acrylic being the culprit then you will require to go and purchase the finest grade of rubbing compound on the market for car finishes. Take a hand sized white cloth and lightly moisten it with some kerosene or turpentine. Just enough to moisten the cloth, as it prevents the compound from caking, and makes the abrasive finer, which leaves a greater finish. Patience will be the virtue here, as you must keep inspecting the area you’re working on so you dont remove or spoil the original finish of the car. Work in reasonable circular motions with easy pressure. Continue checking the color of the paint on the cloth. Keep using several parts of the cloth, so your cloth remains fairly clean, and youre not simply putting the paint back on over again.

The best solution is of course not to spray paint the car at all. Accidents do take place though and fortunately for this peculiar one theres a solution.

This question apparently occurs to a lot of people who believe its a waste of money to consult a certified technician when it comes to their vehicles. Why not simply call in the neighborhood quack, who has always proved useful with a set of tools, instead? Well, there are various arguments against, but the strongest come in the form of the test lineup and mission statements of ASE (The Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) and I-CAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair). These are the two most reputable organizations that certify auto service technicians after conducting tests. Go through the brief backgrounds of each organization, their respective mission statements, and finally their test line-ups.

ASE (The Institute for Automotive Service Excellence)

Until a little over three decades ago, there was no way of making a distinction between professionals and amateurs when it came to auto technicians. Obviously, a solution had to be found. And so was born, in 1972, the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), an independent, non-profit body. Today, the ASE counts almost 420,000 professionals as its certificate holders, working in every possible sector of the automotive industry, including car and truck dealerships, individual garages, fleets, service stations, and more.

How does the ASE go about awarding a certification? All aspirants sign up for one or more of the ASEs 40-odd exams. The tests are classified under such specialty areas as automobile, medium/heavy truck, truck equipment, school bus, and collision repair technicians and engine machinists, alternate fuels technicians, parts specialists, and collision damage estimators. When an applicant has passed at least one exam and has supplied proof of at least two years of relevant job experience, he is officially ASE certified. However, he must take a re-test every five years in order to remain ASE certified. ACT, which runs several academic and occupational testing programs, oversees the tests, held twice a year at over 800 venues around the country. And just in case you thought everyone passes them with flying colors, think again, because roughly one out of three candidates fails the tests, which emphasize job-related skills.

A consumer benefits from ASE certification in two ways: a) It is a reliable measure of the professionalism and skill of an individual technician; b) It indicates the standards that a repair facility adheres to since it employs ASE certified technicians. Therefore, look for the ASE Blue Seal of Excellence logo on anything associated with a repair facility before you decide to patronize it.

ASEs mission: To improve the quality of automobile repair and service through the testing and certification of repair and service professionals in the automotive industry.

To gain a clearer understanding of the methodology of ASE certification and testing, have a look at the tests as outlined on the ASE website (www.ase.com):

Auto/Light Truck: A1 Engine Repair; A2 Automatic Transmission/Transaxle; A3 Manual Drive Train and Axles; A4 Suspension and Steering; A5 Brakes; A6 Electrical/Electronics Systems; A7 Heating and Air Conditioning; A8 Engine Performance

Alternate Fuels: F1 Light Vehicles-Compressed Natural Gas

Medium Heavy Duty Truck: T1 Gasoline Engines; T2 Diesel Engines; T3 Drive Train; T4 Brakes; T5 Suspension and Steering; T6 Electrical/Electronic Systems; T7 Heating, Ventilation, & A/C; T8 Preventive Maintenance Inspection

Parts Specialist: P1 Med/Hvy Truck Dealership Parts Specialist; P2 Automobile Parts Specialist; P3B Med/Hvy Truck Aftermarket Parts Specialist (Brakes); P3S Med/Hvy Truck Aftermarket Parts Specialist (Suspension and Steering); P4 General Motors Parts Consultant

Advanced Series: L1 Automobile Adv’d Engine Performance Specialist; L2 Truck Adv’d Elec. Diesel Engine Diagnosis

Collision Repair and Refinishing: B2 Painting and Refinishing; B3 Non-Structural Analysis and Damage Repair; B4 Structural Analysis and Damage Repair; B5 Mechanical and Electrical Components; B6 Damage Analysis and Estimating

School Bus: S1 Body Systems and Special Equipment; S2 Diesel Engines; S3 Drive Train; S4 Brakes; S5 Suspension and Steering; S6 Electrical/Electronic Systems; S7 Air Conditioning Systems and Controls

Engine Machinist: M1 Cylinder Head Specialist (Gas or Diesel); M2 Cylinder Block Specialist (Gas or Diesel); M3 Assembly Specialist (Gas or Diesel)

Truck Equipment: E1 Installation and Repair Specialist; E2 Electrical/Electronic Systems; E3 Auxiliary Power Systems

Specialty Test: X1 Exhaust Systems

Now for a look at I-CAR

Created in 1979, I-CAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair) is also an international, non-profit training organization dedicated to improving the standard, safety, and efficacy of auto collision repair.

I-CAR also offers the concept described as Outward Vision. This is essentially an attempt to define the Ideal State of the collision industry as far as technical training goes. I-CAR’s definition of the Industry’s Ideal State is:

That every person in the Collision Industry has the necessary technical knowledge and skills relevant to their position to ensure a complete and safe repair. I-CAR continues to develop and deliver technical training programs to professionals in all areas of the Collision Industry. Furthermore, I-CAR provides a communication forum for anyone interested in proper collision repair. Finally, that I-CAR’s primary funding is derived from student tuition and services, insuring that I-CAR can remain unbiased in developing courses and services on an industry-wide basis.

The I-CAR Mission Statement:

To research, develop, and deliver quality technical educational programs related to collision repair; to raise the level of available knowledge and recognize professional achievement; thereby improving communication throughout the Collision Repair, Insurance, and related Industries for the ultimate benefit of the consumer.

These are some of the training courses offered through I-CAR for collision repair technicians:

Identification and Repair Decisions; Adhesive Repair; Welding Repair; Repair of Padded Dashes; Refinishing of Plastics; Analyzing Damage; Creating a Damage Report Manually; Creating a Computerized Damage Report; Safety & Environmental Practices

Understanding Automotive Finishes; Preparing the Surface for Refinishing; Preparing the Equipment, Paint Area & Refinish Materials; Tinting; Applying the Finish; Blending;

Solving Paint Application Problems; Finish Defects, Causes & Cures; Detailing; MIG (GMAW) Welding Cutting & Heating Processes Advanced Welding Methods; Damage Analysis; Straightening Structural Parts; Full & Partial Panel Replacement; Stationary Glass Replacement; Restoring Corrosion Protection; Preparation Panel Replacement and Alignment; Working with Trim and Hardware; Metal Straightening; Using Body Fillers; Door Skin & Intrusion Beam Replacement; Quarter Panel Placement; Moveable Glass and Hardware.

As is obvious from the above, it is impossible to overstate the importance of a certification when it comes to choosing a technician for your car. As in all professional fields, the value of proper training and up-to-date knowledge is immense. So instead of pinching pennies in the short run, you should look to save in the long run. Take your valuable automobile to a properly certified technician.