Many people don’t realize how much money they can save if they were to just take the time to do some simple things for their car. Every one is busy today, with work and relationships and lots of other stresses, but taking ten minutes out of your hectic schedule to do some simple care care maintenance, can save you time and money in the long run.

Here are some common mistakes people make with their cars:

1) Not making sure their tires are inflated properly – There is no real guess work involved here, recommended tire pressure is clearly printed on the tire. One thing you do need to buy if you don’t have one, is a tire pressure gauge. It doesn’t have to be fancy, many reliable gauges cost just around five dollars, less in many cases.

This is beneficial in many ways. First of all, because when your tires are at the optimal PSI, your car will burn less gas. Second, you won’t have to get new tires as often. Third, a tire that is under or over inflated doesn’t perform as well, and can even be dangerous. It can possibly blow and cause an accident.

2) Not checking fluid levels (or not checking them properly) – If your cat is an automatic, you should check fluids when they’re warm. Put the car in neutral, and make sure the parking brake is on. Your engive oil can be checked with the car warm, but make sure the car is turned off to do that. When it comes to radiator fluids, those should only be checked when the engine is cold. If you check them while the car is hot, pressure can build up in the radiator and cause severe burns.

3) Do it yourself oil changes, or skipping regularly scheduled lubrication – Changing your own oil, while is seems like a good alternative, isn’t, because you have to raise the car, drain the oil, which is messy, and then you are stuck with trying to dispose of the used oil.

That’s why taking your car to a lube shop is the best choice. They’ll check all fluids and top of everything, they’ll lubricate the chassis, and do a few other things, for a pretty low price. Using a lube shop is typically less expensive, and a whole lot faster too.

4) Not having regular brake inspections, or not changing the pads often enough – That incessant squeal every time you apply the brake is a warning that the pads have worn down to the studs, and are scraping against the drums and rotors. Taking the time to have the brakes changed, for under two hundred dollars in most cases, is a lot cheaper than having to replace the rotors and drums.

5) Not making sure the gas cap is tight – If your engine light comes on, it could be telling you that your gas cap is loose, and air is interfering with your fuel intake. By making sure your gas cap is on properly, you won’t have to take your vehicle in to get checked for something this simple.

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When your car feels a little different or is making different noises it is usually trying to tell you that it needs some work done on it. It’s always smart to look into the problem right away because the longer you drive while the noise goes on the more damage could happen to your car. But what kinds of noises can help you detect if you have problems with your axle?

One thing to listen for when you are driving is a clicking sound. This usually will happen when you turn right or left. It can also occur when you lift your foot from the gas.

Listen carefully because some get this confused with a low rumble or a whining. These sounds can occur but are indicators of different problems within your engine.

Axles have become a little more complicated in newer cars, but they are different with every car. Because they are a very important part of your steering system, it is important that they are well taken care of.

Now a days newer cars have a split axle. This means that both sides are connected to separate shafts. This allows for an easier ride because each side has separate suspension.

Besides comfort, a split axle will provide safety through better traction. You see, as you turn, both wheels will turn at different speeds to give that added traction. If you live in a climate where there is a lot of rain and snow on the ground you will need more traction.

Because axles are a key part of your steering and traction if you do find there is a problem don’t wait to get it repaired. It can be very hazardous to drive with your axle out of wack.

Don’t let distractions like music take away from time listening to how your car sounds. If you hear anything that is off your car is trying to tell you something. Listen to it, take care of it, and get it fixed sooner rather than later.

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Being in the aftermarket automotive parts business with a focus on Rancho shocks and suspension, customers often ask, “What’s the difference between the Rancho RS9000XL, RS5000, and RSX shocks?” All three are reputable products, yet each is built for different uses and driving experiences. The Rancho RS line of shocks were engineered for the Jeep, truck, and SUV market and ideally used in off-road conditions.

The entry-level is the Rancho RS5000 shock absorber. The RS5000 is a general-purpose shock. It is most often installed as a factory replacement for vehicles with worn out shocks or upgraded suspensions. It’s also recommended for the budget-minded consumer. The RS5000 was engineered for use ranging from street to mild off-road. The result of this is a ride quality that’s often bumpier than what the factory shocks provided because firm shocks are ideal for off-road driving and this comes at the sacrifice of some street comfort.

The Rancho RSX shock is an upgrade from the RS5000. The RSX is unique in that it incorporates an automatic “impact-sensing” reflex valve. This valve automatically opens and closes depending on how quickly or slowly the piston is forced in or out. This provides a broader range of comfort and control across the driving spectrum from street to aggressive off-road.

The best feature of the RSX is that each shock is specifically engineered for the vehicle upon which it will be installed. This provides optimal performance in conjunction with the vehicle’s weight. Unfortunately, there is a downside of the RSX shock — it’s not available for heavy-duty (HD) and super-duty (SD) trucks and full-size SUVs. Does this mean that the RSX can’t handle off-road use? Absolutely not, it is very capable off-road. It just can’t handle the excess weight of certain full-size vehicles. Perhaps Rancho will address this in the future.

An upgrade from both the RS5000 and RSX is the RS9000XL. The RS9000XL has a manual operated valve system. This gives the driver 100% control of the firmness of the shock piston movement. This provides the broadest range of comfort and driving control ranging from street to extreme off-road. Ride quality can be set soft for highway driving, medium for city, and firm for off-road and towing.

RS9000XL have nine possible settings so a quality ride can be had by even the pickiest drivers (or their passengers). In addition to manual tuning, there is an auxiliary wireless myRIDE remote control unit that allows the shocks to be adjusted at the touch of a button while the vehicle is parked or moving. RS9000XL shocks were designed with modern-day, full-size trucks in mind. In addition to the typical 2-3/8″ and 2-1/8″ body diameters found on most shocks, the RS9000XL is also available with a 2-3/4″ body for select full-size applications.

In selecting your Rancho shocks, you’ll need to consider your budget and what kind of driving they’ll be used for. RS 5000 cost the least, RSX cost approximately 40-50% more than RS 5000, and RS9000XL cost approximately 40-50% more than RSX. If you’re looking to save money or merely replace your old, worn out shocks, the RS 5000 shocks will be fine. If you’re still on a budget, but want a ride superior to what an RS5000 offers, then the RSX is recommended. If budget is not an issue, or if you want the best shock available without getting into the “extreme” off-road shocks, then the RS9000XL is recommended.

Establishing safe and conservative oil change intervals is best accomplished through oil analysis performed at a reputable lab. However, at a cost approaching that of a 5 quart oil change, this isn’t always a cost effective solution for passenger car owner.

Of course, the result is that the vast majority of vehicle owners choose not to pay for professional oil analysis services – but they might be willing to perform their own “oil analysis”, if they knew how to do it. It won’t give you detailed numbers as you’d get from a lab, but it can give you enough information to determine whether you should be changing your oil or not (as long as you don’t push things too far).

In the next few paragraphs you will discover the complete details for performing one of six DIY oil analysis tests which can be used to establish the condition of your oil and whether it’s ready for a change.

You might also want to consider learning a bit more about oils and filters in general. Quite alot of information can be gleaned from the following sites.

- No More Oil Changes – tons of motor oil information

- The Motor Oil Evaluator –

- A Motor Oil Forum for discussion of motor oils

The Business Card Test

This test reveals oxidation products, sludge formation, dispersancy failure, glycol contamination, water contamination, fuel dilution, and high levels of particles.

While your engine (and the oil) is WARM (not HOT), pull your dipstick and place one drop of oil on a heavy, white, NON-glossy business card. Lay your “oil drop test strip” (the business card) flat, but so that all but the very edges of the paper is suspended. As a possible example, if you’re using stiff card stock or a stiff business card (which you really should be) simply set the card across the top of a cup or mug of some sort.

You want to be patient and wait for the oil drop to be completely absorbed which might take awhile. Once all of the oil has been drawn into the pores of the paper you should be able to begin evaluating the condition of your oil.

- A colorless spot or slight yellowish outer ring = “good” oil.

- A dense, dark deposit zone = Dispersancy failure

- A black, pasty zone = Glycol (Anti-freeze) in your engine oil

- Center of circle dark with distinct outside ring = Severely oxidized oil

- Center of circle dark with outer rings = Fuel in oil,Fuel dilution

Information for this test featured in: Fitch, J.C., “The Lubrication Field Test and Inspection Guide”, Noria Corporation 2000

There is a point at which a vehicle owner realizes that not all types and brands of oil are created equally. It is at that point that the individual decides that there must be a “perfect oil” out there for their engine and they begin the quest to find it. So, it seems rather important to determine just HOW to find that “perfect oil”. This article and the follow-up articles I’ll be writing soon will be focused on that particular goal.

Legendary Lubrication Dreamland

Of course, many people make the assumption, as they pursue their “ultimate motor oil” that there is necessarily a “best oil” that will fit everyone’s needs. Some SUPER oil which will, undoubtedly, serve everyone perfectly. But, the extraordinary engine oil paradise that they are looking for is a legend at best. It simply doesn’t exist|cannot be found.

No ONE oil can effectively meet everyone’s needs. In fact, no one BRAND can meet the needs of all users either. A premium brand synthetic, like AMSOIL, Redline, NEO or similar, MAY, in fact, be a more premium quality oil, but that doesn’t make it the best choice for every situation.

Thus, you’re going to want to consider your situation and application and what motor oil characteristics will prove to be most useful to your particular needs (such as low temperature or high temperature operation, long oil drains, low internal friction for improved fuel economy, better wear protection, low volatility, etc.). Once these characteristics have been established, then begin looking for the oils that best offer those lubrication qualities.

If you don’t follow a similar research pattern, it is really not possible to make a truly educated decision with regards to proper oil selection for your application. And, thus, you will likely end up with a lubricant that is not meeting your needs in the best way possible.

Petroleum, blend or synthetic, 5w30 vs 5w40, Redline, AMSOIL or Valvoline, API CI-4 or CJ-4, the list goes on. Which of these you choose, ultimately, makes no difference, as long as the choices you make will be ones that best serve the needs of YOUR application.

This question apparently occurs to a lot of people who believe its a waste of money to consult a certified technician when it comes to their vehicles. Why not simply call in the neighborhood quack, who has always proved useful with a set of tools, instead? Well, there are various arguments against, but the strongest come in the form of the test lineup and mission statements of ASE (The Institute for Automotive Service Excellence) and I-CAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair). These are the two most reputable organizations that certify auto service technicians after conducting tests. Go through the brief backgrounds of each organization, their respective mission statements, and finally their test line-ups.

ASE (The Institute for Automotive Service Excellence)

Until a little over three decades ago, there was no way of making a distinction between professionals and amateurs when it came to auto technicians. Obviously, a solution had to be found. And so was born, in 1972, the National Institute for Automotive Service Excellence (ASE), an independent, non-profit body. Today, the ASE counts almost 420,000 professionals as its certificate holders, working in every possible sector of the automotive industry, including car and truck dealerships, individual garages, fleets, service stations, and more.

How does the ASE go about awarding a certification? All aspirants sign up for one or more of the ASEs 40-odd exams. The tests are classified under such specialty areas as automobile, medium/heavy truck, truck equipment, school bus, and collision repair technicians and engine machinists, alternate fuels technicians, parts specialists, and collision damage estimators. When an applicant has passed at least one exam and has supplied proof of at least two years of relevant job experience, he is officially ASE certified. However, he must take a re-test every five years in order to remain ASE certified. ACT, which runs several academic and occupational testing programs, oversees the tests, held twice a year at over 800 venues around the country. And just in case you thought everyone passes them with flying colors, think again, because roughly one out of three candidates fails the tests, which emphasize job-related skills.

A consumer benefits from ASE certification in two ways: a) It is a reliable measure of the professionalism and skill of an individual technician; b) It indicates the standards that a repair facility adheres to since it employs ASE certified technicians. Therefore, look for the ASE Blue Seal of Excellence logo on anything associated with a repair facility before you decide to patronize it.

ASEs mission: To improve the quality of automobile repair and service through the testing and certification of repair and service professionals in the automotive industry.

To gain a clearer understanding of the methodology of ASE certification and testing, have a look at the tests as outlined on the ASE website (www.ase.com):

Auto/Light Truck: A1 Engine Repair; A2 Automatic Transmission/Transaxle; A3 Manual Drive Train and Axles; A4 Suspension and Steering; A5 Brakes; A6 Electrical/Electronics Systems; A7 Heating and Air Conditioning; A8 Engine Performance

Alternate Fuels: F1 Light Vehicles-Compressed Natural Gas

Medium Heavy Duty Truck: T1 Gasoline Engines; T2 Diesel Engines; T3 Drive Train; T4 Brakes; T5 Suspension and Steering; T6 Electrical/Electronic Systems; T7 Heating, Ventilation, & A/C; T8 Preventive Maintenance Inspection

Parts Specialist: P1 Med/Hvy Truck Dealership Parts Specialist; P2 Automobile Parts Specialist; P3B Med/Hvy Truck Aftermarket Parts Specialist (Brakes); P3S Med/Hvy Truck Aftermarket Parts Specialist (Suspension and Steering); P4 General Motors Parts Consultant

Advanced Series: L1 Automobile Adv’d Engine Performance Specialist; L2 Truck Adv’d Elec. Diesel Engine Diagnosis

Collision Repair and Refinishing: B2 Painting and Refinishing; B3 Non-Structural Analysis and Damage Repair; B4 Structural Analysis and Damage Repair; B5 Mechanical and Electrical Components; B6 Damage Analysis and Estimating

School Bus: S1 Body Systems and Special Equipment; S2 Diesel Engines; S3 Drive Train; S4 Brakes; S5 Suspension and Steering; S6 Electrical/Electronic Systems; S7 Air Conditioning Systems and Controls

Engine Machinist: M1 Cylinder Head Specialist (Gas or Diesel); M2 Cylinder Block Specialist (Gas or Diesel); M3 Assembly Specialist (Gas or Diesel)

Truck Equipment: E1 Installation and Repair Specialist; E2 Electrical/Electronic Systems; E3 Auxiliary Power Systems

Specialty Test: X1 Exhaust Systems

Now for a look at I-CAR

Created in 1979, I-CAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair) is also an international, non-profit training organization dedicated to improving the standard, safety, and efficacy of auto collision repair.

I-CAR also offers the concept described as Outward Vision. This is essentially an attempt to define the Ideal State of the collision industry as far as technical training goes. I-CAR’s definition of the Industry’s Ideal State is:

That every person in the Collision Industry has the necessary technical knowledge and skills relevant to their position to ensure a complete and safe repair. I-CAR continues to develop and deliver technical training programs to professionals in all areas of the Collision Industry. Furthermore, I-CAR provides a communication forum for anyone interested in proper collision repair. Finally, that I-CAR’s primary funding is derived from student tuition and services, insuring that I-CAR can remain unbiased in developing courses and services on an industry-wide basis.

The I-CAR Mission Statement:

To research, develop, and deliver quality technical educational programs related to collision repair; to raise the level of available knowledge and recognize professional achievement; thereby improving communication throughout the Collision Repair, Insurance, and related Industries for the ultimate benefit of the consumer.

These are some of the training courses offered through I-CAR for collision repair technicians:

Identification and Repair Decisions; Adhesive Repair; Welding Repair; Repair of Padded Dashes; Refinishing of Plastics; Analyzing Damage; Creating a Damage Report Manually; Creating a Computerized Damage Report; Safety & Environmental Practices

Understanding Automotive Finishes; Preparing the Surface for Refinishing; Preparing the Equipment, Paint Area & Refinish Materials; Tinting; Applying the Finish; Blending;

Solving Paint Application Problems; Finish Defects, Causes & Cures; Detailing; MIG (GMAW) Welding Cutting & Heating Processes Advanced Welding Methods; Damage Analysis; Straightening Structural Parts; Full & Partial Panel Replacement; Stationary Glass Replacement; Restoring Corrosion Protection; Preparation Panel Replacement and Alignment; Working with Trim and Hardware; Metal Straightening; Using Body Fillers; Door Skin & Intrusion Beam Replacement; Quarter Panel Placement; Moveable Glass and Hardware.

As is obvious from the above, it is impossible to overstate the importance of a certification when it comes to choosing a technician for your car. As in all professional fields, the value of proper training and up-to-date knowledge is immense. So instead of pinching pennies in the short run, you should look to save in the long run. Take your valuable automobile to a properly certified technician.

Regular attention to the tires on your automobile will save you money, improve vehicle handling, and improve safety. If this sounds like a tall order, then consider this: If your tires are not inflated enough, then you create drag, and that drag slows down your car. The drag ruins your gas mileage.

When your tires have the proper tread, and are inflated properly, then they roll better and that is why handling is improved. Lastly, safety is common sense. Worn or poorly inflated tires run the risk of either going flat, or bursting while driving.

Let’s take a look at some simple things you can do that will keep your tires in good shape. They are quick, and should keep you out of the repair shop.

You should rotate your tires after every other oil change. This will ensure even tire wear. By doing this, you will spend less by replacing tires less often. Usually, you can get your tires rotated for free.

Inspect the tread on your tires. They should be wearing evenly and not be too worn. If the tread is disappearing, or has worn away entirely, then the tires are unsafe to drive on as they may burst while driving. Visible threads are a sure indication that you need new tires.

If you are noticing that the wear on the tire is uneven, it could mean that your tires or wheels are out of alignment. You can confirm this by noticing that when you drive the steering wheel tends to pull one way or the other. If this is happening you should take your car in to get realigned.

Proper tire inflation is essential to safety and saving money. Again, under inflated tires will increase the drag or road friction. This will hurt your gas mileage. You also stress the tire in the wrong place and this makes them more likely to go flat.

Consult your owner’s manual for proper tire pressures. Invest in a quality dial tire guage. They are about five dollars, and worth the investment.

When you’re shopping for new tires, keep in mind that buying the cheapest tires may not be the most cost efficient decision. Cheaper tires may have a tendency to go flat or wear out quickly. So you end up actually spending more because you replacement costs go up. Also know that the original tires on your car may not be the best for your area. If you live in a cold climate with lots of snow, you may need to get all weather or snow tires.

Proper care and maintenance of your tires will ensure safety, but also improve the life of the tire, and your car. Why not be safe and that the same time keep a few extra dollars in your wallet.